Savoca
Savoca is a serene hillside 12th century village at the end of a windy steep road approximately 40 minutes from Taormina.
This tranquil spot was used as the setting for the
courtship and wedding between Michael Corleone played
by Al Pacino and his first wife Apollonia played by Simonetta Stefanelli, an
actress who actually came from Savoca in The Godfather Part I.
Francis Ford Coppola chose Savoca in 1971 to stand in for the
town of Corleone (which is in located in Western Sicily) he thought that
Corleone was not photogenic enough for the movie.
As you enter Savoca in the main Piazza you will find Bar Vitelli
where Michael Corleone discusses his marriage in The Godfather Part I with Apollonia's father. It is a pretty 18th century building with a vine covered terrace
looking out across a valley towards the Ionian Sea and is still occupied by the original family who owned it when the movie was filmed.
The Palazzo Trimarchi building that houses Bar Vitelli is classified by the Superintendence of Fine Arts by regional decree as a monumental asset and stands on the remains of an ancient noble palace of the 1400's and today after long years of restoration work it resumes its origin as a ancient residence keeping intact the Sicilian style and its historicity. In addition to the renowned terrace in front of the entrance to the bar, the building also has a cellar and two terraces over looking a green valley dominated by Mount Etna.
It is rumoured that Coppola consumed up to 20 lemon granites a day
here, I have to admit the lemon granites are pretty amazing. Inside there
is a small display of photos, press cuttings and mementos from the filming. For
photo opportunities there is a fake rifle and a chair positioned exactly where
Al Pacino sat. Our dog Daisy always loves an afternoon walk around Savoca
followed by socialising with visitors in Bar Vitelli.
Coppola paid for the village to be paved with beautiful cobbled
stones as a thank you for letting him film there.
Take time to amble around the village. From the main Piazza follow the cobbled road that circles the centre of Savoca.
Take the first left and there you will be tracing the steps of The Godfather up
towards Porta della Citta, this was the medieval gate which was
used to lock up the city at nightfall. You will recognise this archway from the
movie when the wedding procession descends down the path from the church. Further along you will see the actual church where the wedding ceremony took place.
Savoca has a few small churches that are well worth a visit and there is also Castello di Pentefur, a ruined Norman castle
which stands high above the village.
If you are energetic enough follow the
whole road around and it will eventually bring you back to the piazza. You will
pass ancient houses covered with wildflowers. Most of the houses have now been restored
with a lot of love. Many of the residents that live here commute to Taormina. As you walk you will see Mount Etna peeking out behind the mountains and the odd lazy
cat sleeping in the Sicilian sun.
During the day you will find Savoca
fairly empty apart from the occasional tour group.
Savoca is also known as the City of Art
and you will see various examples whilst walking around, in the piazza you will
see a local artist’s tribute to Frances Ford Coppola.
There is one other attraction in Savoca
after your walk and Lemon Granite that will detain you in Savoca.
Follow the signs for The Cappuccini Monastery whose crypt features an impressive collection of ancient mummies dating from the 18th century, some intact some not. The remains are of local dignitaries such as doctors, lawyers and priests. There is usually a custodian there, who for a small donation, will let you visit. Most of the mummies are standing in niches around the wall, in glass cases or coffins still wearing their appropriate attire for their profession.
I once had a wonderful conversation with
one of the custodian’s whilst waiting outside the crypt with Daisy, she was absolutely
fascinated that an English rescue dog was living in Sicily and travels between
London and Sicily by car.
You can order delicious Sicilian dishes at Bar Vitelli but
if you want to stop for a longer lazy lunch we would recommend Ristorante La Pineta di
Nino, a friendly family run restaurant serving home cooked Sicilian food. I
will let you in on a little secret, the owner was one of Michael Corleone’s and
Apollonia’s bridesmaids in the movie.
Recently Bar Vitelli has increased their hospitality by transforming the building into a boutique bed and breakfast. Each room has been been designed to offer a magical stay and dream experience. It is also possible to organise any type of event for weddings or special occasions.
Savoca has a wonderful relaxing atmosphere
and is easy to reach from Taormina, take
the coastal road North to the small resort of Santa Teresa di Riva and follow
the signs for “Savoca …. Citta di Arte”. The drive is stunning with the sparkling
Ionian Sea to your right and mainland Italy in the distance.
After visiting Savoca you must stop at the nearby town of Forza d’Agro which was also used as a filming location for The
Godfather Trilogy.
Please feel free to contact me for my recommendations for Godfather Tours, one of these tours is the perfect addition to your Sicilian adventure.
If you enjoyed these posts then you might enjoy these ones too ↓
Forza d'Agro
The Godfather … Movie Locations
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