The Leopard

At school in London one of my favourite lessons was English Literature and I passed my exam with flying colours. Whilst I was studying classics like Romeo and Juliet by William Shakespeare and Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens, in Italy the Italian school children would have probably been studying novels like Il Gattopardo.

The Leopard (Il Gattopardo in Italian) is a novel by Italian writer Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, which chronicles the changes in Sicilian life and society during the Unification of Italy. The novel was published posthumously in 1958 after two rejections by leading Italian publishing houses. The Leopard became the top selling novel in Italian history and is considered one of the most important novels in modern Italian literature. In 2012, UK newspaper The Guardian named it as one of "The 10 Best Historical Novels". The novel was made into an award winning film of the same name in 1963 directed by Luchino Visconti starring Burt Lancaster, Claudia Cardinale and Alain Delon.

My well read copy has pride of place in my ever growing collection of books about Sicily and set in Sicily in our Sicilian house.

Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa was the last in a line of minor noble princes in Sicily. He had long contemplated writing a historical novel based on his great-grandfather, Don Giulio Fabrizio Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa. The leopard representation was inspired by the families noble crest, a golden leopard.

Most of the novel is set during the time of the Unification of Italy (Risorgimento), specifically during the period when Giuseppe Garibaldi, the leader of the famous Redshirts, swept through Sicily with his proletarian army known as The Thousand. The Thousand were a corps of volunteers led by Garibaldi who sailed from Genova and landed in Marsala in Sicily in order to conquer the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies which was at that time ruled by the Spanish House of Bourbon-Two Siciles.

As the novel opens in May 1860, Garibaldi's Redshirts have landed on the Sicilian west coast and are pressing inland and will soon overthrow the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies and incorporate it into the unified Italian Kingdom under King Victorio Emmanuelle. The plot focuses upon the aristocratic Salina family which is headed by Prince Fabrizio. Don Fabrizio is the patriarch of the family as well as the keeper of its strict code of conduct and Roman Catholic ritual. Prince Fabrizio finds marriage to his wife to be physically unsatisfying and thus keeps a series of mistresses and courtesans. He also indulges in his hobby of astronomy, when he is not out hunting with his Great Dane dog, Bendico. He is drawn to his nephew Prince Tancredi Falconeri, whom he sees as having noble qualities. This affection is somewhat diminished when he discovers that Tancredi has joined Garibaldi's Redshirts. On a trip to the Salina estate in the town of Donnafugata the Prince learns that the mayor, Don Calogero Sedara, has become wealthy through dodgy business transactions and political influence and that his wealth now rivals that of the Salinas. When Sedara introduces his extraordinary beautiful daughter, Angelica, Tancredi is smitten with her, to the dismay of the Prince's daughter Concetta, who is in love with Tancredi. Although aware of his daughter's feelings, the Prince accepts the inevitable and helps arrange Tancredi's betrothal to Angelica and the couple become engaged.

Fabrizio is offered the position of a senator in the new Italian state but turns it down. Angelica is introduced to Palermo society at a sumptuous ball and despite her background slips easily into the role of a future countess. The narrative then jumps forward by two decades and finds Prince Fabrizio on his deathbed, surrounded by his family. While suffering a series of strokes, the Prince considers that he will be the last true prince of the Salinas, the last leopard.

The final chapter takes place in 1910. Concetta, now seventy, is still living in the Salina estate with two of her sisters. A story by an old companion of Tancredi reveals to Concetta that he had intended to propose to her and her memories and life choices are recast.

The Leopard has now been adapted for the small screen in a six episode series on Netflix, filmed mostly in Palermo and its surrounding countryside with some scenes shot also in Catania and Syracuse.

One of the things that stand out in the novel is the convivial feasting and banquets held for the Princes distinguished guests. In The Leopard the food is rich in flavour and history, and is central to Sicilian culture of that era such as Timballo ...

Timballo, constructed similarly to Anelletti al Forno Siciliana, is a very ancient Sicilian dish that comes from Palermo. These days this popular baked pasta is made using anelletti, a small ring shaped pasta, with a variety of fillings including minced meat, sliced ham and cheese, aubergines, hard boiled eggs and peas. This dish takes a lot of time to construct but it is so worth it. It is almost like baking a cake. During the era when The Leopard is set timballo would most likely have been encased in a golden shortcrust pastry and the meat would have been chicken and chicken liver and the pasta used would have been maccheroni. In the series Prince Fabrizio says about the timballo “It’s like a sculpture, beautiful and delicious” as it is brought to the dining table for a dinner that Don Calogero Sedara and his daughter Angelica have been invited to at Donnafugata.

In The Leopard the dessert table features a Sicilian dessert called "Triumph of Gluttony", which is made with ricotta, pistachio cream, chocolate and candied fruit with a pastry base much like the cassata we know in Sicily today. The dessert table also includes Sicilian sweets delights such as almond biscotti, cannoli, cassata, gelo di anguria (watermelon pudding) and biancomangiare siciliano (almond milk pudding).

In the series we see the Salina family indulging in granita and brioche for breakfast which many of us still enjoy to this day on our holidays and trips to Sicily.

The Netflix’s adaption of The Leopard is sumptuous and lush, but where was it filmed?

Palermo and its surrounding area, where the novel is set, was used as a location for the majority of the scenes. Palermo is the intriguing Capital City of Sicily. Its history is ancient and interesting. It was the Arabs, describing Palermo as "paradise on earth", who contributed greatly to its glory. Subsequently, with thanks to Norman domination, the city became a rare example of majestic architecture. The Arab-Norman tourist route is not to be missed which includes the Cathedral, the Norman Palace and the Palatine Chapel. Today what remains of earlier ages coexists with modern life creating a multicultural city.

Palermo and its province has many grand aristocratic villas and palazzi dating back to the time when The Leopard is set. In the 1963 film Villa Boscogrande near the seaside resort of Mondello was used as the residence of the Salina family in Palermo in the series many of the scenes were shot at Villa Valguarnera.

The villa is located in Bagheria and is the residence of Vittoria Alliata, Princess of Valguarnera and Villafranca, who is known as the first Italian translator of Lord of the Rings. The estate boasts 37 acres of gardens and farmland. The villa is often used as a filming location and for advertising campaigns for fashion houses including Dolce and Gabbana. Parts of the residence can be privately rented exclusively for a stay fully staffed including a butler and cook.

Many scenes were shot also at Villa Tasca in central Palermo including its lake and gardens. Some of you may remember that Villa Tasca was used as a filming location in The White Lotus Series Two when Harper and Daphne have a girls night away in Noto.

The house of Tancredi is Villa Wirz and other scenes in the series were shot at Palazzo Comutini for interior and dining scenes and also at Villa Spedalotto. Most of the coastline shots were filmed in the Province of Trapani including the scene where Garibaldi and his red shirts land on the island.

Some other of the most notable locations used in the series is the Quattro Canti and Piazza Pretoria. The heart of Palermo is known as the Quattro Canti, also known as the 'Theatre of the Sun' as on any part of the day the sun shines on one of the four corners which divide the city into quadrants. Each beautiful corner is swathed in sculptural decoration with the four seasons, the four Spanish kings of Sicily and the four patron saints of Sicily. It is here in episode two that we see the Salina family on a balcony watching Tancredi march past with Garibaldi’s redshirts. Piazza Pretoria is a square which is just steps away from the Quattro Canti and more commonly referred to as the square of shame due to the nude statues perched around the edge of the elaborate fountain.

Also featured is the Norman Arabic cathedral and Piazza Bellini which is home to the two splendid churches of La Martorana and San Cataldo. Both photo perfect, San Cataldo has three typical Arabic red domes and La Martorana has an original Byzantine mosaic decoration inside with an image of the Norman King Roger being personally crowned by Christ.

In the novel the Salina family have a villa and estate in Donnafugata where they spend their summers. The scenes for the fictional country town of Donnafugata were shot in Piazza Duomo on the islet of Ortigia in Syracuse, you see a fountain in the square which is not usually located there and is a prop just for the series. Ortigia is joined to the mainland by three small bridges. This lovely islet boasts a vibrant contrast of colours and sound with historic squares, a beautiful Cathedral and glorious monuments with restaurants offering excellent seafood. A short distance from Ortigia you can take a step back in time to Ancient Greece in the archaeological park which has an incredible Greek theatre and many other significant sights that once made up one of the most important Greek colonies in the ancient world.

The Liberation Dance scene was filmed at Palazzo Biscari in Catania. You might recognise the ballroom from the movie Cyrano, starring Peter Dinklage which was also filmed in Sicily. The large octagonal ballroom has a complex decoration of mirrors, stuccoes and frescoes. A small dome in the ceiling has a gallery with a balustraded balcony designed to contain an orchestra which is accessed by an exquisite staircase decorated in stucco. The Palazzo has a strong connection to World War II and has been used for many fashion shoots and advertising campaigns. In 2008 the palazzo was chosen by the band Coldplay as the setting for their Violet Hill video. As Sicily's second largest city Catania has had its fair share of earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and although Catania is rich in monuments dating back to Greek and Roman times the city seen today was built mostly after the massive 1693 earthquake. The rebuilding was largely carried out in an elaborate Baroque style utilising black lava stone.

If you are swooning over all the lush and gorgeous flora and fauna in The Leopard, especially the bright pink bougainvillea at Villa Valguarnera, then you have Radicepura, a botanical garden, horticultural park and event venue with around 3000 species of plants with 5000 varieties which is nestled on the slopes of Mount Etna to say thank you to. The palmento (wine press) of Radicepura set the scene as the Genco Olive Oil mill in The Godfather Part II with Robert Di Niro playing Don Corleone.

Another building of interest in Palermo which was not used in the series but worth mentioning is Palazzo Lanza Tomasi which overlooks the Gulf of Palermo. This grand residence was the last home of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa author of The Leopard and now houses a museum dedicated to him including his library and manuscripts including The Leopard which sits in a glass case. The palazzo once belonged to Giulio Fabrizio di Lampedusa, the prince who became the model and inspiration for the character of Prince Fabrizio in The Leopard. The palazzo now houses the Butera 28 Apartments which offers charming accommodation and guests can take tours of the residence guided by the current owners Gioacchino and Nicoletta. You can book a unique cooking class with Nicoletta Polo Lanza Tomasi, the Duchess of Palma di Montechiaro, who you might recognise from the UK TV chef Rick Steins series Rick Steins Long Weekends where they make panelle together at the palazzo and also from the series Ray Winstone’s Sicily.

Some of you may already know that I worked in the wedding and event industry in London for many years dealing with luxury event planners and illustrious venues looking after many glamorous guest lists. A few years back I received an enquiry from an exclusive private event planning agency in London who are so exclusive that they do not even have a website. I could not believe my luck when I found out that the spec of the job was a “The Leopard” themed ball that was being held in Palermo and they required a table plan consisting of placement envelopes with escort cards and table place cards written in calligraphy in a flourished copperplate script. The Sicilian owner of the event agency came for a meeting at the studio in South London where I was working and explained that we was a minor Sicilian prince and regaled me with tales of his noble family lineage and their home in Palermo where his aunt lived which he said that I must visit just to see the extensive library. Yes you guessed correctly, his Aunt is The Duchess Nicoletta and the home is Palazzo Lanza Tomasi. As yet I have never taken him up on his offer to visit even though we always drive past the grand residence overlooking the sea after we disembark from our ferry from Genova to Palermo BUT one day I hope to visit his families home and see library of the author of The Leopard.

Watch this space …

Il Gattopardo (The Leopard)

is showing now on Netflix

The novel The Leopard

by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa

is available to order on Amazon in English

Image Credits: Netflix Italia