The Best of the West ...

Far from the developed resorts of the east coast, much of the western side of Sicily was remote until relatively recently and now presents unique opportunities for tourists.

The coastal areas and offshore islands are pristine and the mountainous interior, mostly rocky, has some of the harshest terrain on the island. Sadly the hilltop towns and villages of the interior have lost large percentages of their population due to mass emigration over the last century.

Over the past few years a number of these towns have been offering cheap "One Euro" properties to encourage people to move to the area with the hope that people will see the area as a good place to invest in or for a renovation project. Many of these towns have a dwindling or ageing population and hope to rebuild the community again.

This year western Sicily was propelled onto British TV screens with the BBC programme "Amanda & Alan's Italian Job". Celebrity best friends, TV presenter Amanda Holden and comedian Alan Carr rolled up their sleeves with a team of builders to bring two crumbling one euro houses in the western medieval hilltop town of Salemi back to life. The program was not all DIY and demolition as the pair also embraced the local lifestyle and the beauty that the western side of Sicily has to offer, visiting vineyards, stunning beaches, breathtaking nature reserves, ancient Greek temples and other fabulous places of interest and enjoyed food typical of this part of Sicily. For once it was wonderful to see this lesser known side of Sicily.

The western side of Sicily and its coastline is steeped in much British history …

A lot of people ask me what is the difference between the eastern side of Sicily and the western side. My reply is always that the eastern side has a more Greek influence and the western side a more Arabic influence, this is evident in the food, architecture and even the people.

On the 14th June 827AD Arab fleets sailed from the Bay of Sousse and after three days they reached Mazara del Vallo in south western Sicily where they landed. The western part of Sicily fell relatively quickly into Muslim hands but the conquest of the eastern portion of the island was a protracted and haphazard affair. It was not until 902AD that the last major stronghold on the island, Taormina, came under Arabic rule.

In 1773 English trader John Woodhouse landed at the port of Marsala and discovered the local wine in the region which was aged in wooden casks and tasted similar to Spanish and Portuguese fortified wines then popular in England. Woodhouse recognised that the 'in perpetuum' process raised the alcohol level and alcoholic taste of this wine whilst also preserving these characteristics during long distance sea travel. Woodhouse further believed that fortified Marsala wine would be popular in England and indeed Marsala proved so successful that Woodhouse returned to Sicily and in 1766 began its mass production. In 1806 it was another Englishman, Benjamin Ingham from Leeds, who opened new markets for Marsala in Europe and the Americas. They were later run by his relatives Joseph Whitaker and William Ingham Whitaker. Joseph and William inherited the vast vineyards. Meanwhile in England the wine acquired so much fame that the British government ordered that their fleet in the Mediterranean Sea under the command of Admiral Nelson be provided with Marsala. A contract was written between Woodhouse and Nelson for the supply of 500 pipes a year to the English ships sailing in the Mediterranean. Admiral Nelson brought his fleet to the port of Marsala for collection.

In 1833, the Italian entrepreneur Vincenzo Florio, a trader from Calabria who had relocated to Palermo and adopted the city as his home, bought up great swathes of land near Marsala and set to making his own vintage wine with exclusive grapes. Florio purchased Woodhouse's business in the late nineteenth century and consolidated the Marsala wine industry. Florio and Pellegrino remain the leading producers of Marsala wine today. The Florio family were a prominent family and extended their interests to fishing and in particular tuna farming. Vincenzo Florio introduced the use of oil to conserve tuna for shipment in cans. There are many tuna fisheries along the western coastline that fascinate and attract hundreds of visitors.

In 1860 Giuseppe Garibaldi set sail from Genova in Northern Italy with a force of volunteers known as "the red shirts" in two steamships in order to conquer the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies ruled by the House of Bourbon. With help from British Royal Navy vessels Garibaldi and his men landed at Marsala on the 11th May. They quickly took the town and assembled the town council which declared the Bourbon rule of Sicily at an end and called on Garibaldi to take over as dictator in the name of King Victor Emmanuel. Garibaldi accepted and hundreds of rebels joined him and his army as he led them north towards Palermo.

Over the course of centuries western Sicily has been a centre of salt production. It began on the island with the Phoenicians and then it flourished in Roman times. The Arabs built more than thirty salt evaporation ponds between Trapani and Marsala.

Trapani is a busy port since the Phoenicians landed there and it gained importance during Spanish domination of the island as it was the closest port to Spain and is still today a bustling town with a mix of Baroque buildings, shops and cafes. Trapani is the gateway to the tempting Egadi Islands. Marsala is now a sun baked seaside town which is of course famous for its wine. Mazara del Vallo is a very North African influenced town because as you now know it was the first town to be taken by the Arabs. Erice is situated on the top of a cliff high above Trapani with amazing views and is known for its Temple to Venus.

Selinunte boasts the ruins of a once Ancient Greek city including temples, walls, a marketplace and homes which stand majestically backed by the sea as silent reminders of the glory of a once great city. Segesta has the most romantic Ancient Greek ruins in all of Sicily which are tucked away between green hills and rugged mountains.

Set in the Gulfo di Castellamare, Lo Zingaro is Sicily's first nature reserve between Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo and boasts much flora and fauna with a tranquil atmosphere making it the perfect location for Amanda and Alan to discuss and make decisions on the renovation and interior design for their one euro house in nearby Salemi.

The beaches of the west coast are prettier and less busy than the rest of the island and make a great place for a relaxing holiday. There are plenty of bays with gorgeous coves and clear waters and on some beaches you could be fooled to think that you are in the Caribbean or The Maldives. Those to try are in the Gulfo di Castellammare, San Vito Lo Capo, Mazaro del Vallo and Scopello.

With the eastern side of the island experiencing a tourism boom thanks to what is being called “The White Lotus Effect”, after the second season of the award winning series was filmed in Taormina, Noto and other locations, now is the perfect time to plan a tranquil and relaxing holiday to the west of Sicily.

The western side of the island is served by two airports Palermo International and Trapani and is somewhere which we are yet to explore .....

At first we spent our first few years living in Sicily renovating and decorating our house whilst exploring our surrounding areas and the eastern side. We bought our Sicilian house after just three trips to the island when we had only visited Taormina so really we were like back to front tourists, buying our home first then exploring and discovering what the island held for us afterwards and there is so much more for us to see and do even after nearly twenty years of visiting the island.

The problem is when you have a home on the island you want to spend as much time as you can there and we seem to keep to our surrounding areas. We have ventured from Palermo along the north eastern coastline down to Taormina and our home town Giardini Naxos, down to the south eastern corner of Sicily as far as Agrigento or across the Sicilian hinterland from Palermo to Catania then home and therefore we have approximately 280 miles of western coastline to discover.

Won't you join us on this new future adventure?

I love travel planning and researching new places I want to see and the things I want to experience and so here is my bucket list for a west coast adventure.

Palermo

Our west coast holiday would start in Palermo. Palermo is a place that we always seem to be passing through travelling home to Giardini Naxos. Whilst we have spent time exploring Sicily's capital city whilst waiting to board our ferry back to Genova from the port we have never actually stayed there and there is still so much for us to discover. Settled by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC Palermo fell first to the Romans, then the Arabs who chose Palermo for their capital, making the city one of the most magnificent and powerful in the world. Today what remains of earlier ages coexists with a multicultural modern life. There is much to explore in this vibrant city from Norman and Arabic architecture, museums and galleries and its colourful and vibrant street food markets.

Borgo Parrini

Borgo Parrini is a small little known village close to Palermo known as "Little Barcelona". The village was completely abandoned until around ten years ago when a man called Giuseppe Gaglio, an entrepreneur who had spent a lot of his childhood there, decided to buy and renovate some buildings using inspiration from Antoni Gaudi's Catalan modernism design and architecture in Barcelona. Now with thanks to him the small village is attracting hundreds of tourists who come to see the colourful houses, majolica tiles and flower adorned cobbled alleys making it a photographers dream and I am sure that I will be taking quite a few photos myself for my Instagram account.

Castellammare del Golfo

Castellammare del Golfo can be translated as "Sea Fortress on the Gulf" stemming from the medieval fortress in the harbour. The nearby bay of water takes its name from the town and is known as the Gulf of Castellammare. It is a charming touristy town which is not too overcrowded with hotels and has an authentic Sicilian feel. Located in the pretty bay with a backdrop of mountains the towns harbour with enticing bars and restaurants would be the perfect place to stop for a seafood lunch before embarking on our next leg of our west coast holiday.

Scopello

Heading further west is Scopello. This small fishing village was almost inaccessible until recent years but is now experiencing a tourist boom, yet it still retains the charm of a tiny fishing hamlet. Here is the beautiful cove of the Tonnara di Scopello, an old tuna fishing complex located next to blue waters at the foot of the village, which is now one of the most photographed places on the island and a popular place for weddings. Movie fans might recognise here as the location for Oceans Twelve when Brad Pitt takes Catherine Zeta Jones character to meet her estranged father in the final scenes of the movie.

Lo Zingaro

Scopello is set in the Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve which was featured often in "Amanda and Alan's Italian Job". Sicily's first nature reserve was instituted in 1980 to protect four miles of rocky coastline. Marked trails of various levels of difficulty thread through the steep interior and along the cliff above the sea with some leading down to small intimate coves with pebble beaches. The reserve protects flora and fauna and wildlife. From here I would love to embark on a boat excursion on the crystal clear waters.

San Vito Lo Capo

This dramatic promontory on the north western tip of Sicily is a resort with a glorious long sandy beach and a lively promenade which is packed in summer months. Each September the town hosts the prestigious and renowned Couscous Festival where internationally well known chefs compete in a contest and I have been told that there is plenty of opportunity for tasting.

Trapani

Trapani has been a busy port town since the Phoenicians landed here but gained importance during Spanish rule as the closest port to Spain and it remains a bustling area. I have been told that a visit to Piazza Mercato del Pesce (fish market) in the morning is a must followed by an afternoon in Erice. The Port of Trapani is also the gateway to the stunning Egadi Islands, three hidden gems that are set just off the western coastline. Trapani is also well known for its Good Friday procession at Easter which is a solemn but atmospheric procession of twenty huge carts depicting scenes of Christ's passion.

Erice

A cable car leaves Trapani behind arriving just eight minutes later to the top of a cliff to the mystical town of Erice. Erice is famous for its Temple to Venus known as "the Castle of Venus" which was so large it served as a beacon to sailors at sea. The village still has a medieval appearance with Arabic style narrow alleys and spectacular views where on a clear day you can see all the way to Africa. During the medieval ages more than 60 monasteries, churches and convents were built there. The ancient roof tops of the village were used as inspiration for computer generated imagery for the movie Aquaman, part of which was set in Sicily.

The Egadi Islands

The Aegadian Islands (Isole Egadi) also known as 'the islands of the goats' are a group of lush islands in the Mediterranean Sea off the northwest coast not far from the cities of Trapani and Marsala. The magic of these islands are their beaches and transparent waters which are a dream come true. Levanzo, Favignana and Marettimo are about 20 minutes from Trapani by hydrofoil and are great for relaxing on a summers day as there is pretty much nothing here except for the cerulean sea and pristine beaches. The islands are most famous for the mattanza, the ancient Arabic tuna fishing rituals and you will see old tonnaro (tuna factories) dotted around the islands. Low key is the way these islands are described. These islands are favoured by the Sicilians for summer holidays.

Saline Salt Pans

The Arabs built more than thirty salt evaporation ponds between Trapani and Marsala in the 15th century which were the largest in Europe at that time. Today the landscape here is still dominated by these salt pans and their windmills that were used to pump the sea water and grind the salt. Unlike other Italian saltworks here much of the work is still done by hand. A salt museum is housed in the three hundred year old Salina di Nubia salt house where apparently the owner proudly shows his visitors his extensive collections and offers his guests a simple salt makers meal of bread with sardines, tomatoes, cheese, olives, local wine and of course salt to taste.

Pink Flamingo Spotting

The Trapani Saltworks are now a nature reserve and a World Wildlife Fund (WWF) reserve. Hundreds of species of birds live here including flamingos, storks and herons who feed on the fish in the basins and lagoons. Whilst the many birds find shelter in the salt flats by far the elegant pink flamingos add charm and colour to this area and to see them would be a highlight to our adventure. It is said that the flamingos are pink due to carotenoids that are found in microscopic algae that prawns eat and so as a flamingo dines on algae and prawns in the salt pans its body metabolises the pigments turning its feathers pink. The best times to enjoy this bird paradise are during the migratory routes in Spring and late Autumn.

Kite Surfing

The western coastline is known for its popular kite surfing spots, with the westerly winds from Spain heading over. The sea bed here is flat under the water and is knee deep and goes out pretty shallow for quite a long distance. This is an experience that I have never tried before but if Alan Carr and Amanda Holden can master kite surfing then I am sure I can too.

Marsala

This seaside town was founded in 397BC by the Carthaginians and finally fell to the Romans after a ten year siege. The Arabs named the city "Marsa Allah" meaning the port of God. The town is also known as the Capital of World Naval Archaeology because in its museum the remains of a Punic ship over 2000 years old rests. In the town you can walk under Porta Garibaldi, the ancient entrance through which on the 11th May 1860 Garibaldi entered the city influencing the history of Italy. Of course there is one very important thing we must do here and that is to taste the Marsala wine.

Marsala Wine Tour and Tasting

Marsala wine is a fortified wine, dry or sweet. Marsala is produced using the Grillo, Inzolia, Catarratto and Damaschino white grape varieties, among others. Marsala wine contains 15-20 % alcohol by volume. Different Marsala wines are classified according to their colour, sweetness and duration of ageing. As you now know Marsala was much favoured by the British and was traditionally served as an aperitif between the first and second course of a meal but these days it is more favoured as a dessert wine. Of course when visiting this area a visit to a winery with tasting would be a must and those on my list are the Cantine Florio and Cantine Pellegrino.

Motya

This archaeological park occupies an entire island in a lagoon north of Marsala where the 8th century BC Phoenicians and later the Carthaginians thrived. Dionysus I of Syracuse destroyed Motya (Mozia in Italian) in 398BC leaving ruins of intricate fortifications, docks, homes decorated with mosaic flooring and other structures. The extensive archaeological collections of the Englishman Joseph Whitaker are displayed in the Museo Whitaker which was once his former home giving Motya the nickname "Whitaker's Island of Mozia".

Mazaro del Vallo

Because of its geographical position this city was an important commercial centre for maritime trade since Phoenician times. Mazar or “the fortress” was at its peak under Arab domination before and after Norman rule. The old town near the port is said to be impressive in the early hours of the morning when you will see the nets being pulled in by fishermen landing fish ready to be sorted and sent to market. One area I want to head for is The Kasbah which is the Arabic Quarter because I just love Moorish design and architecture, so this would be the place for me to explore the tiny alleys with Moorish lamp shades hanging and colourful ceramic tiles on the walls. Here there are also many Tunisian cafes and shops.

Mazaro del Vallo Red Prawns

With their distinctive red colour, even when raw, red prawns are considered a delicacy. For decades they have been Mazara del Vallo's signature product. So much so that they became its official symbol and the towns name appears along side them on menus in restaurants and in cookery books all over the world. I will be hoping to try them in a delicious pasta dish.

Selinunte

On the south west coast not far from Mazara del Vallo there was once an Ancient Greek city. The Greeks founded it in around the 7th century BC calling it Selinunte due to the large presence of wild parsley in the area. Today this archaeological park includes an area of 40 hectares and is considered to be one of the largest archaeological parks in Europe. It consists of five temples built around an acropolis perched on a hill. I think it would be wonderful to wander along the ancient paths of Selinunte to experience an atmosphere rich in history and mythology.

Segesta

About 40 km from Trapani in the beautiful valley of Alcamo, known for its fine wines, is Segesta. The Greek temple, in Doric style, rises majestically on a hillside outside the city walls, consisting of six by fourteen columns. With thanks to its construction and its good condition it is considered one of the most beautiful temples of antiquity. It is no wonder that it was chosen as one of the filming locations for Indiana Jones 5 The Dial of Destiny and I cannot wait to walk in the footsteps of Harrison Ford. You might also recognise the temple from a scene in The Godfather Part III when The Corleone Family travel to Sicily.

Watch a Play

The Greek Theatre of Segesta compliments the beauty of the surrounding nature area and every summer it becomes a testament of a past life when the most beautiful and passionate plays are staged linking the present with the past. A must do to put on my west coast list.

Thermal Baths of Segesta

Located between Alcamo and Castellammare del Golfo there is the Segestan Thermal Baths but behind the private pools of the paid spa I have been told that it is possible to slather yourself in mud and bathe for free close by in a series of free thermal baths, known only to locals, whose waters flow at 47℃. The high temperature of the waters is given by the myth of the river god Crimiso who it is said heated the waters to help a young nymph named Egesta, who had decided to rest on the river bank after escaping the destroyed city of Troy, to get warm. She later became his wife and their son founded Segesta and gave his mothers name to it. The waters here are known for their therapeutic powers and the mud is used to treat rheumatisms, arthritis, sciatica and skin diseases.

Salemi

After Amanda and Alan's Italian Adventure it is only right that we do a quick pit stop at the town where their One Euro house that they lovingly named "Casa Alamanda” is located. Salemi is where Garibaldi announced the annexation of Sicily on 14th May 1860 briefly making the town his headquarters after his landing at Marsala two days earlier. Of course me being me I will probably spend our visit looking for all the gorgeous street dogs seen in the TV program.

Couscous Cooking Class

A cooking class is always fun in Sicily. Couscous is a North African legacy in Sicily which is a tangible reminder that Africa is closer to the island than Rome. The correct ingredients include two grades of semolina made from the Sicilian wheat 'grano duro'. The couscous is usually topped with an abundance of seafood with an intensely rich fish stock and subtle spices and is a very long and slightly complicated method to make.

Pesto Trapanese

Pesto alla Trapanese is a Sicilian variation of Genoese pesto and originates from the Province of Trapani. This pesto is made using almonds and tomatoes instead of pine nuts. On menus across the island you will probably see it called Pasta con Pesto Siciliana. This pasta dish is one of my favourite TV chefs Rick Stein's favourite pasta dishes and he makes it in the episode of his series "Long Weekends" when he visits Palermo.

Pasta con Sarde

One of Inspector Montalbano's favourite dishes is Pasta con Sarde. Legend says that when Euphemius of Messina returned from exile in Tunisia to mount a military expedition in 827, his Arab cooks, on landing at the harbour of Mazara del Vallo put together the first ingredients that came to hand. This dish is made using wild fennel, pine nuts and the freshest of sardines.

Beach Time

With all this exploring, discovering and eating and drinking we will definitely be in need of some beach therapy. On the western coastline we will be spoilt for choice with beaches boasting spectacular landscapes, crystal clear sea and clean sands. San Vito Lo Capo could rival the beaches of the Caribbean with three kilometres of white sand, clear water and a seabed which is shallow for many meters. This beach was chosen as one of Sicily's best beaches by the UK newspaper The Guardian. Marzala dell Vallo also has some wonderful beaches with golden sand that gently slopes into the sea.

Pantelleria

This tiny exclusive volcanic island is actually closer to Africa than Italy and is as well known for its VIP visitors as it is its natural beauty and culinary gifts. On a clear day Tunisia is visible from the island. Pantelleria is Italy's top secret island. Shy celebrities go here on holiday such as Giorgio Armani and Luca Zingaretti (Inspector Montalbano) who both have villas here. The architecture reflects Arabic influences and the island is dotted with dammusi which are low, white washed, domed houses. Pantelleria is famous for its caper production and the thick and sweet moscato passito dessert wine which is made from the Zibbibo grape which grows well on the island. The island was recently put into the spotlight when it was used as the filming location for the movie "The Bigger Splash" starring Tilda Swinton, Matthias Schoenaerts, Ralph Fiennes and Dakota Fanning. To be honest we probably wouldn’t get time to visit here on our west coast adventure but it is definitely on our must to do list for a tranquil weekend retreat. Ferries depart from Trapani and there is a small airport on the tiny island for domestic flights.

Watch the sun set

The western side of Sicily benefits from the most spectacular sunsets which cast a vibrant orange glow over the towns, salt pans and coastline. How amazing it would be for us to watch as the sun plunges into the sea in the western hemisphere and ponder on all the wonderful things we have seen and done on our amazing Western Sicily holiday.

My West Coast Mood Board

Photo Credits: Google Images

(Cover Photo _ Scopello)

My own photos coming soon

Amanda Holden and Alan Carr's

Casa Alamanda

All the proceeds from the sale of the renovated Sicilian house in Salemi will be spilt between the UK charities Comic Relief and Children in Need

Please note that this project was made for TV with thanks to the BBC production team and in reality it takes a lot longer to take on a One Euro house renovation

Each town offering this scheme in Sicily has its own rules and regulations for purchase and building work within a time limit so it is best to check the finer details with the local commune

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If you enjoyed this Blog post then you might enjoy these ones from my archive:

My Top Palermo Travel Tips https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2018/08/my-top-35-palermo-tips.html

Sicily's Gourmet Salt https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2019/04/sicilys-gourmet-salt.html

A Quest in Search of Indiana Jones https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2022/01/a-quest-in-search-of-indiana-jones.html

Nelson's Castle https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2017/09/nelsons-castle.html

Sicily's South East Corner https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2021/04/sicilys-south-east-corner.html

Sicily's Secret Islands https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2020/07/sicilys-secret-islands.html

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