The Coast of the Cyclops

The coastline from Aci Castello just north of Catania to Aci Trezza, south of Taormina is called Riviera dei Ciclopi (The Riviera of the Cyclops) and it is an area of outstanding beauty, full of myths and legends.

Whenever we fancy a short road trip this is one of the places we head for and sometimes when we drive home from a shopping trip to Catania we forego the autostrada and take the coastal road home, it takes a lot longer but it is well worth it for the dramatic views.

The coastline of North Eastern Sicily is also known as the Riveria of Lemons, given the significance of citrus groves. The coastline rises to dizzying heights of 120 meters at the nature reserve Timpa di Acireale, just above the coastal villages of Santa Maria La Scala and Santa Tecla.

Aci Castello
Starting from Catania, Aci Castello is a seaside village built around a picturesque square, where an ancient Norman castle is perched on a rock overlooking the sea. Built by King Tancredi in 1189 on Roman ruins, it became a prison during the reign of the Bourbons. You can visit the museum in the castle and admire a collection of minerals and fascinating archaeological remains. There are some ancient stairs that lead up to the summit where you can enjoy a special view of Isole dei Ciclopi (Cyclops Islands) the jagged rocks that emerge in the distance from the sea at Aci Trezza.

Aci Trezza is an ancient fishing village where the three rocks stand prominently in the sea. The legendary rocks were said to be thrown by the Cyclop Polyphemus.

In Homer’s The Odyssey, after being blinded by Ulysses, Polyphemus broke rocks from Mount Etna and threw them at Ulysses and his men in a fit of anger as they escaped on their ship. Polyphemus had been holding them hostage in his Mount Etna cave eating them one by one, they escaped by clinging to the bellies of his flock of sheep as the sheep left the cave to graze. Polyphemus had previously asked Ulysses what his name was and Ulysses replied “Nobody” so as they escaped the other cyclops on the volcano asked Polyphemus who had blinded him and he shouted “Nobody did it”.

Polythemus
A grant recently provided by the Ministry of the Environment and Land Protection has protected the islands. The main island, Lachea is now a marine reserve. You can reach the islands by getting a boat ride from one of the local fishermen who will take you there for a couple of euros. You can swim in the transparent waters behind the rocks and experience an amazing view of Mount Etna from the sea. Also an incredible experience is on board a glass bottomed boat, where you can get close to the sea and see the fishes beneath you, whilst enjoying the natural beauty. 

The town of Acireale is high above the rocky coast and is well worth a visit. From the public gardens you look down towards the Riveria dei Ciclopi. The town was built on old lava streams and has a beautiful piazza with a Baroque style cathedral. In Roman times it was known as a spa town and the thermal baths are still used today. It is also well known for its Sicilian puppet theatre and museum and also for its Carnevale in early spring which is said to be the best in Sicily.

In this region the myth of Aci and Galatea comes alive. In ancient times there lived Aci, a handsome shepherd who fell in love with Galatea, a beautiful sea nymph with whom Polyphemus the Cyclop was infatuated with. Polyphemus was jealous of the two lovers so he murdered Aci by throwing him against a large rock. The Gods took pity on Aci and transformed him into a river so that Galatea could swim in it and be with her beloved.  Aci also gave his name to the three towns on the coast.
Aci and the sea nymph Galatea

The river Aci had its mouth at Capo Mulini, a small fishing village which has intimate restaurants serving seafood and fish that could not be any fresher, this is where we always stop for lunch. The waters off the coast of Capo Mulini were the scene for naval battles that were fought between Carthage and Syracuse and later the Roman civil wars.

The Coast of the Cyclops certainly is an area full of stunning beauty, landscape, geology, history, myths and legends.

Why not combine a visit  to the Riviera of the Cyclops with a visit to the City of Catania.


Photo Gallery

Cyclops Islands, Aci Trezza

The Norman Castle, Aci Castello

Polythemus and Ulysses, The Odyssey

My Polyphemus, on our roof terrace facing Etna

... another Daisy adventure 

Cyclop Islands from Acireale


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