Ragusa Ibla

October 01, 2016

When visiting Sicily a trip to the South East corner is a must do, the landscape is very much different from the rest of the island yet this small corner is rich in sights.

The towns of Syracuse, Caltagirone, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, Scicli and Ragusa have all been declared as UNESCO World Heritage sites on the merits of their Baroque architecture and town planning, the result of the rebuilding after the destruction of the 1693 earthquake.

Ragusa is famous for its historic lower quarter of Ibla. The city was reconstructed after the earthquake and the architectural style is predominately late-baroque, but many other styles from other periods of history are visible such as Roman, Byzantine and Aragonese.

The narrow winding streets of Ragusa Ibla create a perfect walking environment where you will see majestic churches, palaces and typical small houses all gently winding around a hill giving a near timeless effect.

You can start your visit down in Ragusa Ibla or for a dramatic view I recommend heading to Upper Ragusa first.

There is not too much to see here as this is a more modern part of Ragusa, but there is a beautiful Cathedral in Piazza San Giovanni and a tourist information office where you can grab a map. From the piazza turn right onto Corso Italia and walk a small distance and down some steps where you will find a terrace next to the quaint Church of Santa Maria della Scala and there the roof tops and buildings of Ragusa Ibla and the Ragusan countryside lays out in front of you, it is quite breath taking.

For the agile you can walk down the seemingly endless steps or there is a small bus you can take down the winding road.

Ragusa was founded as Hybla Heraia by Sicily’s first inhabitants the Siculi who fled inland from the coast to escape the invasion of the Ancient Greeks.

After the earthquake half the population chose to rebuild on the ridge above Hybla Heraia (Upper Ragusa) while the other half chose to renovate the old village (Ragusa Ibla). It is said that the two halves were in constant competition to build the most beautiful buildings.

Ragusa Ibla is beautiful with little terracotta roof tiled buildings clinging to the side of the hill adorned with plant pots full of bright coloured geraniums and the odd lazy cat on the doorsteps sleeping in the Sicilian sun.

The majestic Duomo San Giorgio is the highlight of Ragusa Ibla and is located in the heart of the town. It is built on a rise to emphasize its great size which dominates the town. In front of the Duomo is a beautiful tree lined piazza full of tempting cafes. A visit inside the Duomo is a must. The Duomo was built in 1744 with a beautiful baroque façade and a tall central bell tower with a dramatic set of steps climbing up to the main entrance. The church took over forty years to complete. Its beauty attracts many couples who wish to marry there, the church is wedding photo perfect.

The architect Rosario Gagliarli who built San Giorgio also built the Cathedral of San Guiseppe located further down from San Giorgio in Piazza Pola.

At the furthest end of Ragusa Ibla you will find the Giardino Ibleo the town’s public gardens full of palm trees and tropical flowers.

From the gardens you can reach the Portale San Giorgio. Not to be missed, this is the surviving portal of the pre-quake Cathedral which is Catalan-Gothic in style and has a delicately carved St George slaying the Dragon.

Whilst visiting Ragusa do not fail to take a walk through the narrow side streets where tiny alleys are connected with steps and tunnels for a taste of authentic Ibla.

Fans of the television series Inspector Montalbano are in for a real treat when visiting Ragusa.

The public garden is recognisable from the series with its distinctive avenue of palm trees and Piazza Duomo doubles as Vigata’s fictional square.

There is also the Circolo di Conversazione, founded as a social club for the Ragusan Gentry, this is where Inspector Montalbano breaks in on coroner Dottore Pasquano’s card game in the episode "The Scent of the Night". The Duomo of San Giorgio has been featured in several episodes. As you stroll through the characterful streets, you expect around every corner for Montalbano or one of his deputies to come dashing around the corner in a squad car.

Gastronomy has always featured high on the must try experiences for tourists in Ibla and after all that walking you can be forgiven for being tempted by the fantastic array of cafes, restaurants and gelaterias surrounding you.

After your visit to Ragusa Ibla head to the town’s seaside resort Marina di Ragusa, a short drive away. The area is noted for its beautiful beaches and lively café and bar life. In summer it is a bustling tourist resort and in the winter it becomes home to an international community who sail the seas throughout the summer months and choose the marina as their winter berth.

From Taormina the drive to Ragusa is approximately two hours through the winding roads of the Ragusan Countryside.

Group excursions combining the South Eastern towns of Sicily and Inspector Montalbano filming locations are available but why not treat yourself to a touch of luxury and book a private English speaking driver to escort you.

For overnight stays in Ragusa Ibla I would recommend the San Giorgio Palace Hotel which is located in a beautiful building dating back to the 18^th Century located in the heart of the town.

If you enjoyed this post search my Blog archive for my posts “Scicli”, “Noto” and “Caltagirone” and discover these equally beautiful Baroque South Eastern towns.

Fans of Inspector Montalbano might also enjoy my post “The Inspector Montalbano Filming Locations Tour”.

Photo Gallery

(All Photos are my Own)