Sicily: Culture and Conquest Exhibition London

The British Museum is dedicated to human history, art and culture, located in the Bloomsbury area of London. Its permanent collection, numbering some 8 million works, is among the largest and most comprehensive in existence and originates from all continents, illustrating and documenting the story of human culture from its beginning to the present.

This week sees the start of a new exhibition ‘Sicily: Culture and Conquest’. Sponsored by Julius Baer and in collaboration with Regione Siciliana, Assessorato dei Beni Culturali e dell’Identità Siciliana.

The exhibition starts on 21^st April 2016 and runs through to 19^th August 2016. The museum presents the first major exhibition in the UK to explore over 4000 years of history in Sicily.

Sicily is where Europe ends and Africa begins. It began its history as part of Ancient Greece and soon became part of the Roman Empire. Thereafter the island was invaded by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish and Bourbons before unifying with Italy. Each conquest left its mark on the island.

This exhibition tells Sicily’s fascinating stories, from the arrival of the Greeks and their encounters with the Phoenicians and other settlers, to the extraordinary period of enlightenment under Norman rule in the 11^th to 13^th century.

Yesterday I was delighted to be able to attend the press preview of the exhibition.

On arrival at the British Museum I excitedly headed for exhibition room number 35.

The curators Dirk Booms and Peter Higgs have put together an impressive collection of Sicilian treasures. For much of its history, Sicily was admired and envied for its wealth, cultural patronage and architecture.

In the exhibition, ancient Greek sculptures, architectural decorations from temples, churches and palaces, early coinage, stunning gold jewellery, and Norman mosaics and textiles demonstrate Sicily’s diversity, prosperity and significance over hundreds of years.

(For a brief history of the Greek and Norman era in Sicily and where to discover Greek and Norman architecture in Sicily search my Blog archive for my post from 4^th April 2016, “Sicily Exhibition at The British Museum of London”).

On entering the exhibition I was greeted by a huge photographic image of Mount Etna and Lake Pergusa with a quote by Al-Idrisi, Arab geographer from The Book of Roger, 1138-54 scribed on the wall next to it:

“Sicily is the pearl of this century … Since old times, travellers from the most far away countries … boast of its merits, praise its territory, rave about its extraordinary beauty, and highlight its strength … because it brings together the best aspects from every other country.” 

One of the first objects you will discover is a 14^th Century copy of a double paged map of Sicily from Al - Idrisi’s Treatise. It is the perfect introduction to the exhibition.

Over 200 objects have been brought together to reveal the richness of the architectural, archaeological and artistic legacies of Sicily.

The exhibition is beautifully laid out, with full descriptions and dialogues of Sicilian Greek and Norman history, famous quotes and large photographic images. The objects are wonderfully highlighted with subtle lighting.

The British Museum has worked closely with the Sicilian ministry of Culture since 2010 on several loans of artifacts, both at the British Museum and in Sicily. The exhibition presents the next collaboration between curators of the museum and Sicily. The objects are of outstanding cultural significance and have been carefully selected through consultation with Sicilian specialists from different museums across the island. The objects are displayed alongside other loans from Italy, the US and the UK, as well as items from the British Museum’s own collection.

I am not going to reveal everything about the exhibition as it will spoil your surprise when you visit, instead I will share my favourite objects. It has been a hard decision. 

From the ancient Greek collection I loved the altar which shows three striking goddesses and a panther mauling a bull. The figures are goddesses of agriculture, fertility and the life cycle. Above them a panther with teats full of milk devours a bull. The bull’s death gives her cubs life. The style of both scenes combines Greek and Phoenician influences. Fragrant oils and food offerings would have been burnt on the top of the altars during rituals for gods and goddesses. This altar is fairly well-preserved, so it may have never been used. It is on loan from the Museo Archeologico in Gela.

Another favourite was a magnificent terracotta architectural sculpture of a Gorgon, the famous Greek monster, this was once perched on the highest point of a building at Gela. Terracotta ornaments were frequently used to decorate the upper levels of buildings in Sicily and they are amongst the finest that have survived the ancient world. The gorgon faced tile cover sat over the top of a triangular gable end of the building. I wondered how this would look on my Sicilian house. In Sicily you will find replicas of this face in the many terracotta shops over the islands.

From the Norman collection I was breath taken by the wooden ceiling of the Palatine Chapel created by Arabic craftsmen. The star and cross patterns framed by ‘honeycomb’ vaulting create a complex stalactite structure. Every inch was plastered and painted with Arabic inscriptions and scenes from King Roger II's court. It is absolutely stunning. Also stunningly beautiful was the decorative mosaic from the ‘Room of Roger’ located in the Palazzo dei Normanni. Modelled after the gardens of Muslim rulers, the mosaic depicts the pleasure gardens that bordered the palace containing exotic birds and plants. It also shows the common medieval Mediterranean motifs so typical of Norman Sicilian art, the Tree of Life flanked by leopards and peacocks, hunters and centaurs interspersed with lions. The lion was a heraldic symbol of King Roger II.

My most favourite object was a replica of King Roger II’s ceremonial robe. The most important surviving object from Norman Sicily, the original robe was too fragile to travel. Made of gold-embroidered silk set with pearls, enamel plaques, sapphires, garnets and a ruby, the robe has become a symbol for the island’s diversity. The textile was made in the Byzantine Empire and embroidered by Muslims in Sicily for their Christian ruler. An Arabic inscription running along the seam says it was made in Palermo in the year 528 in the Islamic calendar and lists blessings and virtues bestowed on the King. Lions triumphing over camels on either side of a Tree of Life symbolise Roger’s tolerance towards his Muslim subjects as well as his dominance over them.

Reluctantly I had to leave the exhibition. On exiting you pass through a museum shop. Products range from designer jewellery to sensational sculptures and collectible replicas, home and fashion accessories to toys and games. Many of the pieces are exclusive to the British Museum with many hand made in Sicily. There are also marzipan fruits typical of Sicily, chocolate from the South Eastern town of Modica, books about Sicily and products from the luxury soap and fragrance company Ortigia who use the colours and scents of Sicily to create their products, they also use the Tree of Life as their emblem. You can also purchase the companion catalogue to the exhibition written by the curators.

The exhibition is also accompanied by an events program with contributions by Sicilian lecturers and artists. There are lectures, gallery talks, films and special events, visit the ‘What’s on’ page on their website.

For tickets and more information visit www.britishmuseum.org

I hope you enjoy the exhibition as much as I did and that it will inspire you to visit our magical island of Sicily.

Giardini Naxos (my home town) was the first Greek colony in Sicily and was founded in 734BC. 

This year on 31^st April and 1^st May Giardini Naxos will stage the first ‘Naxos Hellenic Feste’. The event has been conceived and written by the director John Bucolo and will focus on the rediscovery of our towns origins. There will be battle re-enactments and tours of our archeological park. Many of the local restaurants will be involved serving classical dishes. Keep posted to White Almond Sicily for more information.

Now enjoy my Photo Gallery

For more photos of the Exhibition visit my Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/whitealmondprivatesicily/

(All Photos are my Own)

'Naxos Hellinic Feste'

Giardini Naxos, 31st April - 1st May 2016

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Love from Sarah x