Making Giuggiulena (Sicilian Sesame Seed Nougat)

The Sicilians love for all things sweet has ancient roots and in antiquity honey on the island was prized for sweetening local produce.

When the Arabs arrived in Sicily in the ninth century they brought sugar cane, crystallized fruit and other delicious goodies such as sugared almonds. They also left much more than sugary traces behind in the form of stunning architecture and flavoursome cuisine.

The sugar cane industry flourished in Sicily until the late fifteenth century when, with the discovery of the New World, the sugar plantations moved across the Atlantic. The Sicilian sugar industry responded to foreign competition but survived only until the late seventeenth century.

When in Sicily one look in the window of a Sicilian pasticceria will make you forget any thoughts of the so called Mediterranean diet. The sweetness of nuts and sugar seem to waft in the air and lure you inside like a child in a candy shop.

Amongst other delicious produce that our fertile volcanic land provides us with there is also an abundance of almonds, pistachios, hazelnuts and exotic sesame seeds.

Honey (Miele) is produced across Sicily. Due to the abundance of citrus groves most of the honey is made from Orange Blossom nectar. There are around 67,000 hectares of orange groves in Sicily. The groves have a unique microclimate provided by Mount Etna. Warm days, cool nights and fertile volcanic soil allow Sicilians to produce what many say are the best oranges in the world.

The volcanic town of Zafferana Etnea, located on the slopes of Mount Etna, is well known for its production and makes honey which is made from the Sicilian Black Bee (Nero d’Ape). These bees are very proactive even in high temperatures up to 40 degrees when other species of bees stop producing. The honey that this black bee produces is incredibly unique.

Giuggiulena is a traditional hard nougat-like sweet typical of Sicily. The main ingredient is sesame. The recipe is based on the combination of sesame seeds poured in honey which are fixed by the caramelization of sugar. It takes a very long preparation with a resting period of twenty four hours and it is usually cut into diamond shapes or rectangles. As with the other sweets on the island it is considered a legacy of the Arabs but you need to mind your teeth, and filling's if you have any, as you bite into it. Although it is associated with Christmas it is eaten and enjoyed all year round on the island and you can find it sold from stalls in street food markets or in a pasticceria.

The word Giuggiulena derives from the Arabic word “juljulàn” which means “sesame”.

Giuggiulena is also known in Sicily as Cubbàita which comes from the Arabic word “quibbiat” which means “with almonds”.

Beautiful almond trees adorn the Sicilian countryside and in late February and early March these trees come into blossom with delicate pinkish white flowers and the scent is overwhelming. The almond blossoming is celebrated at this time in one of Sicily's most famous festivals signifying that Spring is awakening on the island. This festival is held in Agrigento a town in Southern Sicily well known for the famed Valley of the Temples which sets the scene for the festivities. Almond in Italian is mandorle and in Sicilian dialect mendula. When we visit street food markets in Sicily we can buy these precious almonds sold in many ways from whole, chopped, flaked and ground.

A sharp tongue in Sicilian dialect is "Pizzuta" which also refers to the famous sweet almonds grown around the island. The name derives from the shape of the shell that curves round and ends with a point. The hard shell protects the nut from the Sicilian sun and allows it to be stored for longer. These nuts melt in your mouth and are rich and full of sweet oil. Almonds are usually harvested in late summer when the flavour is at its most intense. Some of the best almonds are said to come from the area of Avola in the south eastern corner of Sicily.

Sesame seeds have a mild, sweet and nutty flavour and a satisfying crunch when eaten whole. They are often baked or toasted which brings out a stronger almond-like flavour and aroma making them more pungent in cuisine. Another vestige of Arabic influence, sesame seeds are used a lot in Sicilian cuisine including pasta dishes and for those of you who love Sicilian street food you will know that they top the roll for ‘Pane e Panelle’, the chickpea fritter sandwich typical of Palermo. Unique tasting sesame seeds are cultivated by hand in the province of Ragusa and boast an intense flavour. Sesame seeds are sown in May, they flower from July and are harvested in mid-September where the bunches are arranged in sheaves which are left to dry in the Sicilian sun.

You only have to mention sesame seeds for most people to declare “Ohhhhh I love sesame seeds!!!”

Sesame seeds, almond's and honey are a firm staple in any Sicilian kitchen cupboard, including my own, and there is also always an abundance of oranges and a jar of sugar available and these are all the ingredients you need to made your own homemade Giuggiulena.

When I am in London and suffering from the sadness of missing Sicily, yes that really is an ailment, I make this delightful sesame seed and almond nouguat. It is quite easy to make if you have the patience for stirring and dealing with sticky ingredients. The other problem is that it should really be allowed to rest for twenty four hours but I just cannot resist a nibble straight away at this chewy nutty and toffee-like treat before it hardens too much.

The recipe I use is by Antonella La Macchia, a Sicilian cooking teacher, private chef and food blogger living in Tuscany. We follow each other on social media.

The measurements of the ingredients are 125g of honey (preferably orange blossom honey), 50g of sugar, 125g of toasted sesame seeds, 100g of toasted almonds and the zest of one orange.

I toast the almonds and sesame seeds myself by placing them on greaseproof paper on a baking sheet in my oven until they look golden. The smell of the sesame seeds baking is divine. I then put the honey and sugar in a heavy based saucepan over a low heat until the sugar has fully dissolved. I add the orange zest, the almonds and sesame seeds and cook the mixture until it is golden brown.

I then tip out the sticky mixture onto a greased piece of greaseproof paper which I usually grease with olive oil. Traditionally the mixture would be turned out onto a marble worktop as in the same way as making panelle (sicilian chickpea fritters) but not all of us have the pleasure of a kitchen worktop made of marble.

To spread the Giuggiulena into a rectangle shape you can use a wet palate knife but I put another layer of greased paper on top and flatten the mixture down using a rolling pin then shape it with the palate knife after.

After a few minutes I cut the Giuggiulena into squares although traditionally it should be cut into diamond shapes. Then allow it to cool and store it in an airtight container or I pop them into the little cellophane bags as this nougat makes a perfect treat for family and friends.

Wishing you all good luck making Giuggiulena.

Enjoy eating a little piece of Sicily !!!!!!

A Sicilian Cooking Class is always a great idea,

please ask me for my recommendations.