Making Mostarda (Wine Must)

November 10, 2020

Autumn is a wonderful time of year to visit Sicily and one of the most important harvests on the island is 'Vendemmia', the grape harvest.

The grape harvest in Sicily starts in late August and continues through September. It is the moment when the grapes, having absorbed all the Sicilian sun that they need, are ready to be picked and prepared for vinification to make delicious Sicilian wine.

Wine in Sicily has a history thousands of years old created from the essence of many invading civilisations.

When we are in Sicily at this time of year my Sicilian big brother's children usually come to visit us to play with our dog Daisy and they will bring us a gift of 'Mostarda' homemade by their nonna (their grandmother).

It is a common gift to give to neighbours and friends.

Mostarda is a very thick marmalade made from cooked wine grapes called must.

This must is called in Italian 'Mosta' and in Sicilian dialect 'Mustu'.

The must is created after the grape harvest and Mostarda is usually prepared in October or November especially around 'Feste di San Martino' on the 11th November when it is traditional to drink the 'vino novello' (the new wine).

San Martino (Saint Martin) was a soldier of the Roman Empire who became a Saint for his generosity. Legend says that whilst he was out riding with his fellow soldiers he met a beggar who was poor and freezing cold. San Martino cut his own military cloak in half and shared it with the beggar to keep him warm in the chilly November temperature. That same night he had a dream that Jesus was wearing the same piece of fabric from his cloak that he had given the poor beggar and Jesus thanked him for his kind gesture.

Legend also says that at the moment he shared his cloak with the beggar the sun came out and that is what became known as 'Estate di San Martino' a short period of time during the first weeks of November characterised by warm and sunny weather, or as we would call it in the UK, an Indian summer.

Yet another great reason to visit Sicily in Autumn.

This is the perfect time of year to taste the new wine and there is an old Italian saying "A San Martino ogni mosto diventa vino" (On Saint Martins Day every wine must turns into wine). It is also the perfect time to eat a lot with all the family.

A couple of years ago whilst Wine Tasting at the Cottanera Winery in Castiglione di Sicilia the chef created a very special crostata for us filled with Mostarda, yummy !!!!

I have never made Mostarda myself but I have had the pleasure of watching the children's nonna make it and her whole kitchen becomes fragranced by autumnal spices and orange peel, so therefore here is her trusty recipe:

Ingredients:

10-12lbs of Wine Grapes,

4 lbs of Sugar

Cinnamon

"00" Flour

Dried Orange Peel

Cloves

2oz Toasted Almonds

The Sicilian Sun

Method:

Wash and clean the grapes. Discard the stalks, skins and any seeds. Chop the flesh and put into a stainless steel or enamel saucepan and cook on a low heat for about four hours. Add the sugar gradually making it dissolve well. Add the cinnamon, orange peel, almonds and cloves. Cook for four more hours at a medium bubbling boil. Add a little of the '00' flour to thicken the mixture constantly stirring making sure that no lumps form. Cook for another hour. Mix with a wooden spoon then put the mixture into moulds or in dishes (nonna puts hers on a plastic plate) and leave out to dry in the sun for about two days not forgetting to cover to protect from any insects. Then store in a dry place.

Mostarda has a very unique taste and texture and it is not for everyone's palate.

Nonna told me that traditionally 2oz of wood ash should be added as well which would be made from burning the stalks that were pruned on the grape vines. But I am not too sure about that ingredient, Eeeeeek !!!!

Eventually if the mostarda lasts long enough without being eaten it will turn hard like liquorice and would be eaten at Christmas time.

Of course the most important ingredient is the Sicilian sun

Vendemmia (Grape Harvest)

Mostarda (Wine Must)

San Martino with Nonna

Crostata at Cottanera Winery

If you enjoyed this Blog post then you might enjoy this one from my archive

"... an abundance of Grapes" https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2019/10/abundance-of-grapes.html

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Made in Sicily with love by Patricia and Marco and family

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