14 Things I have Learned Living in Sicily
Sicily is an island full of outstanding beauty, delicious food, wonderful history and culture and the Sicilian people, who are amazing, who have their own way of life making island life completely unique which is another reason why we fell in love with the island so much so that we decided to buy a house there.
Coming from London we are used to a fast pace of life. Over the past ten years we have learned to live like the Sicilians do. People now say "she is now more Siciliana than Inglese", I have been told I dress differently and I even gesture like a Sicilian when I talk and eat.
In Sicily I never watch television, well why would I need to when I have Mount Etna as live entertainment?
It is often that I get Emails and messages from people looking to relocate to Sicily asking for my advice. My advice is to rent first because living in Sicily is completely different to going on holiday in Sicily. With the new so called €1 house phenomenon there are many people looking to buy houses in Sicily who have never even visited the island seeing it as a investment and know absolutely nothing about Sicily, its history, the culture or the Sicilian way of life. Things you have to keep in mind is that some of these properties are in remote hilltop towns far from the coastline and beaches, with no train station and maybe one bus in and out a day, the alternative is to hire a car which can be very costly in Sicily for a long period of time. These towns might only have a couple of bars and local grocery stores. I also get asked where to find and buy British food brands on the island and if this is your mentality then maybe Sicily is not for you.
There is a saying by Francine Prose “It is easy to be happy in Sicily but it is an operation that requires a biological as well as a cultural adaption, you have to learn to live time in the Sicilian way”
So with all this in mind here are fourteen things I have learned from living life the Sicilian way.
1) Local Shopping and Markets
In London we are most likely to pick up our produce, fruit and vegetables, meat and fish from the local supermarket sometimes not knowing where they have been imported from and wine is also bought off the shelf from producers all over the world.
In Sicily there is an abundance of delicious produce, we buy our fruit and vegetables in the local grocers, we buy our fish in the local Pescheria (fish shop) and our meat from the local Macelleria (butchers). Bread is bought from our local Panettiere (bread shop) and cheese from the Negozio di Formaggi (cheese shop). Wine is bought from the local Enoteca or from a local place where you will find barrels of local red and white wine where you queue with your empty water bottles to purchase one litre of local wine for a maximum of 2 euros. Cakes, pastries and biscuits are bought from the local Patisseria. Fruit and vegetables can also be bought from local people scattered around town parked up with their own produce piled high on 3 wheeled ape vehicles and also bought off open back vans who come down our street shouting Frutta e Verdure (fruit and vegetables) on loud speakers.
The only items we go to supermarkets for are bottled water, household items and dog food for Daisy, however she does enjoy a trip to the butchers for his off cuts of meat.
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| Fresh Tomatoes and Aubergines at our Local Grocers |
Supermarkets can be an experience leading on to .......
2) Handbags can be used as Weapons
Sicilian women especially ones of a certain age do love to carry a large heavy handbag on the crook of their arms.
They seem to be used as a weapon of mass destruction particularly in supermarkets when you might be standing where they want to be or they are also useful in the local post office where a queuing system does not appear to exist.
They are also used as weapons to get past you in the streets. Being a blue eyed Inglese when we first bought our house I appeared to be an easy target but in time I have learned to carry my own heavy handbag and let battle commence.
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| My Trusty 'Coffa' |
3) Local Pride and Hospitality
Sicilians are completely passionate about their island and proud of their heritage.
On first meeting people they will tell us exactly why their island is the best place in the world and will tell us what to eat and where to eat in their hometowns.
When we first visited Sicily we had only just arrived and settled in our hotel before the manager called his friend to whisk us up to Taormina in his vintage Fiat 500 so that we could see the beauty of the town as soon as possible.
One of my followers, on travelling to Ragusa, got lost in their hire car and could not find their accommodation. They stopped off at a little petrol station where a local farmer instructed them to follow his truck where he then escorted them to the door of their hotel and then spent an untold amount of time telling them where to go and where to eat in the Province of Ragusa where he had grown up.
Another follower informed me that after over indulging each evening on fine Sicilian wines during a weekend break in Catania that he found a local stall holder in Catania's famous street market who would squeeze him fresh blood orange juice with a dash of vodka as a 'Hair of the Dog' each morning.
Local food and wine producers are insanely proud of their products and you will probably find yourself going home with crates full of produce from their land accompanied with some home made wine.
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| an abundance of just picked Oranges |
4) Café Culture
In Sicily we have a lot of bars and cafes.
You can bump into someone you know in the street or they could be driving past you in their car and they will shout out "Hey, you want to take coffee?" Cue bad parking in the first available space, but more about that in a moment.
Friends will call and say "See you in ten minutes at the bar/café for coffee/aperitif/gelato?".
Sometimes at this point, we will be flat out sunbathing on our roof terrace, cue dropping everything and having to get washed/dressed quickly and walking to the seafront which if you have read my previous post 'Celebrating 10 Years of our Sicilian House' you will know that a walk to the seafront which should only take five minutes can actually end up taking an hour as everyone stops to say hello to our dog Daisy.
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| Café Culture |
5) Our Taste Buds have Changed
In the UK I have never been a big lover of vegetables but in Sicily I eat loads of them. The aubergines, which I would never had eaten before, are particulary delicious and included in many Sicilian signature dishes such as Pasta alla Norma and Caponata. Both are now favourite dishes of mine.
The tomatoes taste of the Sicilian sun in which they have ripened in and come mainly from the south eastern corner of the island. Friends in Sicily always exclaim "WHY!!!!!" when I order just a simple Spaghetti Pomodoro, but they don't understand that we do not get the same kind of tomato sauce in UK, it tastes totally different in Italy, it really does. It is pure comfort food like having sausage and mash in the UK.
I would never eat fish dishes before, but now I find myself eating octopus, squid, sea urchins etc. because being an island Sicily has an abundance of fish in the surrounding sea meaning that you can guarantee that the fish you are eating was caught that morning.
We drink more freshly squeezed fruit juices too. The citrus fruits in Sicily are delicious, sweet, irresistible and HUGE. I once was given a grapefruit by a neighbour, it was nearly the size of a football, I managed to squeeze a whole pint of juice from it.
You will NEVER find a traditional English fry up breakfast in Sicily you will need to adapt to the tradition of the great Sicilian breakfast of granita with brioche or cappuccino/espresso and a sweet pastry.
6) Laundry is a Competition
Washing is a whole new experience when in Sicily. I hang my washing on a line on our roof terrace and I have to pinch myself every time I look up and see Mount Etna watching me. In summer washing dries in super quick time, after unloading the washing machine and hanging everything up it is dry within ten minutes. I also get a few odd looks from neighbours whilst hanging up my washing in my bikini especially in winter months when the Sicilian sun can still be really warm and all the locals are in jumpers and scarves, but more about that later.
I have learned that washing can also be a competition between neighbours.
A lot of Sicilian women have their washing machines on their balconies and sometimes it appears that they are on constantly. The competition seems to be whoever can hang out the most amount of clothing. My washing always seems to be of much interest and it has even been noticed when there is an odd number of my husbands socks on the washing line. Leading on to .....
7) Neighbourhood Watch
We live in a small community within Giardini Naxos where everyone knows each other and there was much interest when we bought our house.
We do not need a security system as our neighbours know everything that goes on and who comes and goes.
On two occasions whilst visiting our home without my husband it was noted that I was home alone with men ... on one occasion my brother was staying with me and on the other occasion a gay couple.
It can be quite endearing though and we know the house is always watched over, during this winter a piece of plaster had fallen off on our balcony and it was noted and reported back to us in the UK pronto.
8) We do not need a Clock or Watch
We do not have a clock in our house and I rarely wear a watch at home. This is simply because we are surrounded by many churches with beautiful bells that toll on the hour and every quarter of an hour.
In the summer months we know what day of the week it is due to the cruise ships that anchor in the bay of Naxos once a week.
On lazy summer beach days we know when it is near lunch time as the locals all pack up their beach attire and beach towels to go home for a delicious home cooked meal.
In the mornings we do not need an alarm as the beautiful birdsong awakens us just like a Disney movie.
9) Driving and Parking
Driving in Sicily can be like a white knuckle ride especially in the cities and on the autostrada. Over the past ten years we have learned not to lose your cool and just go with the flow. If someone flashes their head lights at you on the motorway it does not mean they are giving you right of way it means get the hell out of my way.
Parking the Sicilian way means parking your car even in the smallest space and if your car does not fit then you simply park your car with the back sticking out causing mass confusion and traffic jams, but that's ok we have all the time in the world in Sicily.
The back roads of Mount Etna can be very narrow, one year on our way to visiting a winery on Etna our Sat Nav decided to take us a "quicker" route, it was just after the eruption in December 2013 and there was still lava rocks on the road that are like shards of glass. The route made us turn up a one way hill where a tractor was coming down towards us, the road was so narrow that we could not open our doors without hitting ancient stones walls. Our wheels kept turning with no movement and eventually we had to slide down backwards in reverse and pray to the gods of Mount Etna.
10) Slower Pace of Life
In London we are used to a fast pace of life, in Sicily we have learned to slow down.
We join in the evening passeggiata along the seafront of Giardini Naxos or down Corso Umberto in Taormina. Where before we used to zoom along over taking the locals, now we take our time to walk and maybe stop at a bar for an aperitif or sit on the wall on the seafront with a gelato and people watch.
11) Sicily Syndrome
In winter whatever the temperature and it can be very warm, the locals will be in jumpers, scarves and coats from the end of October until April. This year in January I found myself roasting in a padded jacket walking along the seafront so that I did not stick out like a tourist or ex-pat (I hate that term). I have been told off for not wearing a jacket in the winter season so sometimes it seems easier to roast.
There are a few ailments that I had never heard of including liver ache, getting hit by air and wind in the ear amongst others. Liver ache is brought on by eating too much rich Sicilian food and to avoid getting hit by air you must wear your jacket and scarf to keep your neck warm.
I found this quite amusing until after a road trip exploring the south east of Sicily on a windy day with the windows down in our car I myself came down the next day with wind in the ear. Thank you to Aeolus the Greek god of wind.
12) Blogging
I never expected to become an author of a Blog but after falling in love with Sicily I realised that not many people in the UK actually knew much about the island apart from the mafia and that The Godfather was filmed there. So in 2014 I decided to write a Blog to promote Sicily as a destination to English speaking visitors.
Through my Blog I have learned the entire history of the island and its culture and researched its food. I have met many fascinating and amazing people and there is always somewhere or something new to discover. We have had a lot of fun discovering the island, exploring new places and been invited on some amazing experiences such as boat trips, off road Etna jeep excursions, wine tasting and visited some stunning hotels and venues.
But blogging can have its ups and downs. Although I get lots of wonderful emails I also receive fake emails testing what I do and I guess trying to extract details of my contacts. One funny experience last year was from someone I met that I offered to write a blog post for to help promote their business whose response was "But I would have to write it because you would not be able to write it as good as me". I hasten to add this person was not Sicilian or from Sicilian heritage.
 |
| Comfort Food ... Spaghetti Pomodoro |
Washing is a whole new experience when in Sicily. I hang my washing on a line on our roof terrace and I have to pinch myself every time I look up and see Mount Etna watching me. In summer washing dries in super quick time, after unloading the washing machine and hanging everything up it is dry within ten minutes. I also get a few odd looks from neighbours whilst hanging up my washing in my bikini especially in winter months when the Sicilian sun can still be really warm and all the locals are in jumpers and scarves, but more about that later.
I have learned that washing can also be a competition between neighbours.
A lot of Sicilian women have their washing machines on their balconies and sometimes it appears that they are on constantly. The competition seems to be whoever can hang out the most amount of clothing. My washing always seems to be of much interest and it has even been noticed when there is an odd number of my husbands socks on the washing line. Leading on to .....
 |
| Volcanic Washing Day |
We live in a small community within Giardini Naxos where everyone knows each other and there was much interest when we bought our house.
We do not need a security system as our neighbours know everything that goes on and who comes and goes.
On two occasions whilst visiting our home without my husband it was noted that I was home alone with men ... on one occasion my brother was staying with me and on the other occasion a gay couple.
It can be quite endearing though and we know the house is always watched over, during this winter a piece of plaster had fallen off on our balcony and it was noted and reported back to us in the UK pronto.
 |
| Guardians of our Roof Terrace |
8) We do not need a Clock or Watch
We do not have a clock in our house and I rarely wear a watch at home. This is simply because we are surrounded by many churches with beautiful bells that toll on the hour and every quarter of an hour.
In the summer months we know what day of the week it is due to the cruise ships that anchor in the bay of Naxos once a week.
On lazy summer beach days we know when it is near lunch time as the locals all pack up their beach attire and beach towels to go home for a delicious home cooked meal.
In the mornings we do not need an alarm as the beautiful birdsong awakens us just like a Disney movie.
 |
| Cruise Ship Calendar |
9) Driving and Parking
Driving in Sicily can be like a white knuckle ride especially in the cities and on the autostrada. Over the past ten years we have learned not to lose your cool and just go with the flow. If someone flashes their head lights at you on the motorway it does not mean they are giving you right of way it means get the hell out of my way.
Parking the Sicilian way means parking your car even in the smallest space and if your car does not fit then you simply park your car with the back sticking out causing mass confusion and traffic jams, but that's ok we have all the time in the world in Sicily.
The back roads of Mount Etna can be very narrow, one year on our way to visiting a winery on Etna our Sat Nav decided to take us a "quicker" route, it was just after the eruption in December 2013 and there was still lava rocks on the road that are like shards of glass. The route made us turn up a one way hill where a tractor was coming down towards us, the road was so narrow that we could not open our doors without hitting ancient stones walls. Our wheels kept turning with no movement and eventually we had to slide down backwards in reverse and pray to the gods of Mount Etna.
 |
| The Catania/Palermo Autostrada |
10) Slower Pace of Life
In London we are used to a fast pace of life, in Sicily we have learned to slow down.
We join in the evening passeggiata along the seafront of Giardini Naxos or down Corso Umberto in Taormina. Where before we used to zoom along over taking the locals, now we take our time to walk and maybe stop at a bar for an aperitif or sit on the wall on the seafront with a gelato and people watch.
 |
| Gelato O'Clock |
In winter whatever the temperature and it can be very warm, the locals will be in jumpers, scarves and coats from the end of October until April. This year in January I found myself roasting in a padded jacket walking along the seafront so that I did not stick out like a tourist or ex-pat (I hate that term). I have been told off for not wearing a jacket in the winter season so sometimes it seems easier to roast.
There are a few ailments that I had never heard of including liver ache, getting hit by air and wind in the ear amongst others. Liver ache is brought on by eating too much rich Sicilian food and to avoid getting hit by air you must wear your jacket and scarf to keep your neck warm.
I found this quite amusing until after a road trip exploring the south east of Sicily on a windy day with the windows down in our car I myself came down the next day with wind in the ear. Thank you to Aeolus the Greek god of wind.
 |
Aeolus, the Greek God of Wind
who lived on the Aeolian Islands
|
I never expected to become an author of a Blog but after falling in love with Sicily I realised that not many people in the UK actually knew much about the island apart from the mafia and that The Godfather was filmed there. So in 2014 I decided to write a Blog to promote Sicily as a destination to English speaking visitors.
Through my Blog I have learned the entire history of the island and its culture and researched its food. I have met many fascinating and amazing people and there is always somewhere or something new to discover. We have had a lot of fun discovering the island, exploring new places and been invited on some amazing experiences such as boat trips, off road Etna jeep excursions, wine tasting and visited some stunning hotels and venues.
But blogging can have its ups and downs. Although I get lots of wonderful emails I also receive fake emails testing what I do and I guess trying to extract details of my contacts. One funny experience last year was from someone I met that I offered to write a blog post for to help promote their business whose response was "But I would have to write it because you would not be able to write it as good as me". I hasten to add this person was not Sicilian or from Sicilian heritage.
I also get a lot of people who use content from my Blog, imitate my Blog or feel they have to compete with my Blog and this makes me very sad.
In my Blog posts I always like to share the story of how I discovered a place or the person I am writing about, leading on to ......
13) It is Easy to Make New Friends
In the ten years of living in Sicily we have made more friends than we have in our entire life.
Through friends of friends, through my Blog and through walking Daisy our dog. I have become friends with people I have sat next to on flights to Catania, met on the ferry from Genova to Palermo, VIPS, owners of our favourite Sicilian restaurants in both Sicily and the UK. We have met many of my followers in Sicily and also met many lovely English speaking tourists all who have also fallen in love with the island and kept in touch.
I am lucky to have a lovely group of ex-pat friends who are married to Sicilians and we all look after each after, swapping English books and magazines and regularly meeting up for coffee, aperativo or dinner.
We have also been adopted by several Sicilian families who love us like we are their own and with whom we have enjoyed many meals around the family table eating delicious home cooked food learning to live to eat and not eat to live.
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| Blog Life |
13) It is Easy to Make New Friends
In the ten years of living in Sicily we have made more friends than we have in our entire life.
Through friends of friends, through my Blog and through walking Daisy our dog. I have become friends with people I have sat next to on flights to Catania, met on the ferry from Genova to Palermo, VIPS, owners of our favourite Sicilian restaurants in both Sicily and the UK. We have met many of my followers in Sicily and also met many lovely English speaking tourists all who have also fallen in love with the island and kept in touch.
I am lucky to have a lovely group of ex-pat friends who are married to Sicilians and we all look after each after, swapping English books and magazines and regularly meeting up for coffee, aperativo or dinner.
We have also been adopted by several Sicilian families who love us like we are their own and with whom we have enjoyed many meals around the family table eating delicious home cooked food learning to live to eat and not eat to live.
One of the best ways we have made friends is with Daisy, having a dog in Sicily is a big benefit for getting to know the locals.
On every trip to Sicily I can guarantee one hundred per cent that we will make new friends because this is the Sicilian way, when you meet a Sicilian once they then become a friend for life.
14) BUT Most Importantly
Finally the most important thing that I have learned living the Sicilian way is that Sicily is just not Sicily, it is friends, family, generosity and passion.
And I would not change it for anything.
Thank you for following me at
White Almond Sicily
Love Sarah and Daisy x
On every trip to Sicily I can guarantee one hundred per cent that we will make new friends because this is the Sicilian way, when you meet a Sicilian once they then become a friend for life.
14) BUT Most Importantly
Finally the most important thing that I have learned living the Sicilian way is that Sicily is just not Sicily, it is friends, family, generosity and passion.
And I would not change it for anything.
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This Blog post is dedicated to
all my amazing friends in Sicily,
thank you for all the love and friendship.
Please Note:
This post is written from my own
This post is written from my own
experience of living in Sicily
__________________________
If you enjoyed this Blog post
then you will enjoy my previous posts
The Story of How We Bought our Sicilian House https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2021/03/the-story-of-how-we-bought-our-sicilian.html
Giardini Naxos … Our Town https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2020/02/giardini-naxos-my-town.html
The Great Sicilian Breakfast https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2016/07/the-great-sicilian-breakfast.html
Operation Ash Clearance https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2021/12/operation-ash-clearance.html
Taormina … The British Legacy https://whitealmond-privatesicily.blogspot.com/2017/09/taormina-british-legacy.html
Thank you for following me at
White Almond Sicily
As seen in "The Essential Guide to Sicily"
by Essential Italy
and
"My Lemon Grove Summer"
by Jo Thomas
also on
"Sicily Weddings & Honeymoons"
by Wedaways©
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and all things Sicilian
Follow me on
Facebook www.facebook.com/whitealmondprivatesicily/
Twitter www.twitter.com/sicilyconcierge/
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For Travel Tips, Trip Advice and Recommendations
Email me on
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For Travel Tips, Trip Advice and Recommendations
Email me on
WhiteAlmondSicily@Gmail.Com
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| Bar Vitelli, Savoca |
Love Sarah and Daisy x
