Catania ... the city built on lava


Catania is Sicily's second largest city, in 1669 Mount Etna erupted and engulfed the city in lava. The city that exists today is built on top of the lava flow.

Most people just think of Catania for the airport but the city is well worth a visit.

Piazza del Duomo
Catania is popular for its stunning Baroque architecture with most buildings being rebuilt making full use of the black lava giving it the nickname "The City of Black and White".

The best starting point and main hub of Catania is Piazza del Duomo with its majestic cathedral and the symbol of Catania, a lava elephant carrying an Egyptian obelisk on its back which is said to bring the city good fortune.
Lava Elephant

From the piazza you can easily reach the famous Pescheria to enjoy the ambiance and smells of the fish market where the charismatic stall holders shout across to you enticing you to buy the finest fish they have just caught that morning. The market is loved by the renowned chef Rick Stein and was featured in his television series and book Mediterranean Escapes where he described it as "artistic" and "operatic" "with fish laid out like paintings". A warning, get there early as they start packing up around 11am, well they have been up all night fishing and need to catch up on their beauty sleep. There are a couple of great trattorias for lunch situated adjacent serving the catch of the day.

In the side alleys off the Pescheria you will find meat, cheese, herbs, fruit and vegetables.

Castello Ursino
Also worth a visit close to Piazza del Duomo is the Teatro Romano (Roman Theatre) and Castello Ursino, which was orginally situated on a rocky cliff above the sea but after Etna's eruption in 1669 became completely landlocked and now is home to Catania's civic museum. Also close by is the opera house Teatro Bellini, I have had the pleasure of enjoying a gelato in the piazza opposite whilst rehearsals were taking place inside, the acoustics are magical.


Via Etnea runs from Piazza Duomo almost all the way up to the foothills of Mount Etna and is the major shopping street with department stores and designer boutiques.

Halfway up Via Etnea you will find remains of the Anfiteatro Romano, what you will see is a very tiny part, the rest is buried underneath the city. The theatre would have held 16,000 spectators so you can only imagine what lies underneath.Via Etnea ends at Villa Bellini a public garden which contains many exotic plants.
Anfiteatro Romano

You can join a hop on hop off bus called Katane Live which visits all the main sites with a commentary.

Catania is a university town so enjoys a very lively nightlife with many restaurants, bars and cafes.

So for me my ideal day in Catania? Arrive early and park close to Villa Bellini and walk through the park with our dog Daisy. Head to the Pescheria, fruit and vegetable market. Banter with the stall holders for the best Swordfish (pesce spada) steaks, buy some Sicilian oregano to make a Samoriglio sauce to complement the Swordfish. Stroll back up Via Etnea for a spot of boutique shopping, then buy some Cannoli to share with Daisy in Villa Bellini before heading home to fire up the barbecue for pranzo (lunch).

Buses and trains run to and from Catania from Giardini Naxos and Taormina, but why not book a driver with local knowledge to take you.

What to wear; City Chic by Day and Italian Glamour by Night

Pescheria

Fruit and vegetable Market



Via Etnea


Piazza Duomo

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